It consists of a line driver drum and a top halyard swivel. The Selden CX furler makes sail handling easy, quickly add power to the boat and keep sailing in light wind conditions. Again, we are cruising sailors, and your situation and preferences might be different.The Seldén CX is a furling system for code zero sails.ĭesigned for quick setup and easy deployment, an essential feature for sails that are not used permanently. It reaches pretty nicely including in quartering situations. After living with this for 2 seasons, I have not been motivated to add the cruising chute to the inventory. When we built the boat, we decided to build it with the code 0 setup, and wait to see if we wanted a cruising chute in addition. It is nice for a cruiser anyway, to be able to roll up the code 0 when the wind comes up without sending anyone forward. The Schaefer furler is sort of a small conventional drum where the line accumulates when unfurled. When we looked at these, we imagined having to go forward to work the continuous furling line, although in retrospect I'm not sure this is actually true. Lots of the furlers for this purpose are continuous line furlers (I think Facnor works this way). There are other furlers that might be better depending on your preference. There also has to be enough clearance up top, which again a fractional rig makes easy, but maybe a spinnaker halyard would allow for this. In our case we had the boat builder make an extra long anchor roller, with a place to attach the code 0 forward. A fraction rig makes this easy, but I think you could do it with a removable sprit of some sort, even if your jib was all the way forward. The sail effectively flags out in front of everything.Īll of this depends on the rig allowing you to place the code 0 in front of the jib. If you want to jibe the code 0, you can without rolling it up if you lead both the sheets in front (like you might do to make a cruising chute jibe). Of course you can tack the jib conventionally because it's on the inside. If you want to tack, you do need to roll up the code 0. When both sails are hoisted, it looks a lot like a solent rig, with the 2 sails only inches apart. We put a cleat conveniently located near the primaries to store the sheets for the sail not in use. I lead these aft, and have a second set of blocks for the sheets, so I can leave the jib sheets lead as well. I leave the sheets on the Code 0 in snake mode in the bag. When I hoist the Code 0, part of the exercise is to attach the Code 0 furling line to the code 0 furler. One goes to the jib furler, the other terminates in a figure 8 knot for the Code 0 on the ready. I have 2 furling lines setup at all times. When we built this boat, we discussed many of them at length as I was worried about the same issues. The good news is, you can sail very well in very light air with this setup.Īgain, I don't know if this will work in your situation, but we really enjoy this setup and recommend it.Īll good questions. We designed the sail so that at about 12 knots apparent, it's time to put it away. Given how light the sail is, he recommended against this. If we wanted to do this, the sailmaker would add a UV protection layer which adds weight. I asked the sailmaker if we could just leave the code 0 up. We drop the snake again, at our leisure, mostly back on the hook at the end of the day. If the wind pipes up, we furl the code 0, unfurl the jib, and keep going. In light air we hoist snake in front of the jib (our rig is fractional so there's room), and then unfurl at our leisure. A number of companies make furlers that work this way, furling around the wire luff. The code 0 is on a wire luff and has a furler always attached while rolled up in the bag (like a snake). I don't know if this will work for you, but the setup we have includes a 110 jib plus a code 0.
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